Central Saint Martins MA, 2015
This is quite late since we’ve already gone through Milan and have arrived at Paris, but [insert excuse here]. And so. These are students from the last Central Saint Martins MA class to have had the privilege to learn under Louise Wilson, the beloved professor and course director who trained Lee McQueen, et al. So, to put it rather bluntly, it’s hard to completely focus on the obvious talent in this group, with the looming question of ‘will next year’s crop be as good?’ in the back of our minds. My mind, anyway.
That said, let’s focus on the obvious talent in this group. First off, I’m going to go through my favorite three collections from the show, starting with that from Seyoung Hong. Nothing earth shattering here, just perfectly done, fluid looks in a very calming palette. I’d live in that olive kaftan piece, if I had the chance.
Then, from Xinyuan Xu, we get what I call the sea cucumber collection, seeing as…they look like sea cucumbers. Until we get to that chromosome dress, that is. I don’t know why, but I love this collection a lot.
Then, from Krystyna Kozhoma, a collection that made me say ‘holy moly’ out loud. Just really breathtaking pieces. Very Björk-meets-Medusa.
Now, I’d like to go through the fact that about half of the students seemed to devote a lot of attention to footwear, or, rather, footcoverings. I don’t seem to remember this collective attention to the models’ feet before, so I’m wondering if this is the influence of a new member of the MA teaching team? Let me know if you have any insight into this. Anyway, my favorites are: everything from Xinyuan Xu’s sea cucumber looks (two of which I’ve zoomed in here); these red overflowing pumps from Beth Postle that remind me of my childhood Minnie Mouse doll; and the shoes in about half of the looks in James Theseus (!) Buck’s menswear collection, which look like painting/plastering projects gone very wrong (or very right?). I’m also a fan of the dip-dyed socks-over-shoes look, seen in all of the looks by Yushan Li. Not practical in the least, but that’s not really why we’re here, is it?
Lastly, I really really like these individual looks, the first two being from Paul Thomson (the one on the left being a toned down, more practical version of Lee McQueen’s living flower dress), and the next two bursts of colour from Charles Jeffrey and Beth Postle, respectively.
Alright. Signing off, probably until the Big 3 this weekend.
(Photos [and screenshots thereof] via UK Vogue)