The School of Fashion at Academy of Art University, MFA 2015
I missed catching the livestream of the Academy of Art University’s MFA show last night, so thankfully it’s still available on demand on NJAL. The show showcased a truly solid class of grad students, making me think that Central Saint Martins will really have to pull out all the stops this year to top AAU.
Anyway, there are still no actual photos up on the Internets anywhere that I can see for the show, so for now we’ll have to rely on my screen caps of my favorite collections from my morning viewing. Also, I can’t find any detailed write-ups of the show (a constant problem for group/school shows),
so I don’t know which collection is whose (there were 10 collections from 13 grads). When I can find out which designer(s) is/are responsible for which collection, I’ll update this post. Edit: Post now updated with names and links!
And so. The first collection to go down the runway (from Emmanuelle Ciara Jones, MFA Fashion Design and Ghazaleh Khalifeh, MFA Textile Design) took me a couple looks to grasp due to the splashy yet dark patterns, but then when I noticed the lovely repeated layering (coat+overskirt+pants in the same fabric) and train-like hemlines, I was hooked. The last look below is pretty much autumn in a single outfit.
The second collection to go down the runway (from Christian Willman) grabbed me sooner, but not until I saw the back of the first look. Not sure what the metal dental headgear-like accessory is that is most prominent from the back of some of the looks, but it definitely causes a second take. And, as previous kOs posts have likely conveyed, I like well-done 3D detailing on otherwise tailored pieces. I’m reading the lapel/collar 3D elements here as metaphors for being barred into the rollercoaster that is the business world (ride attendant, please let me off!).
This next collection from Ozanhan Kayaoglu at first reminded me of Cunnington & Sanderson’s ‘Amygdala’ collection with the watercolour/woodgrain print, as well as the palette of that jacket from Lee McQueen’s A/W 97/98 collection.* That would be enough for me to post the collection, but the unique cut-out/slip-over closure system is what really held my interest.
Lastly, there was a collection (from Erin A.F. Milosevich) full of tulle mid-calf length skirts that was lovely but not really me, until it got to these two melodramatic looks. Love. I also kinda like taking screen caps just when the camera is being switched to the next look, so you get a ghost model in the background.
Bravo MFA grads, bravo.
* See also pages 50-51 of the Met’s Savage Beauty exhibit book, which actually has a woodgrain pattern on the endpages.