Gareth Pugh, S/S 15
From the sounds of it, the Gareth Pugh show/non-show at NYFW was the event to be at this season. Unfortunately for those of us who weren’t in attendance, the few very dark and blurry photos tweeted and instagrammed didn’t really give an idea of what Mr. Pugh’s S/S 15 collection looked like, aside from one dress really. Personally, I was totally okay with this, though I admit it was mainly because I had heard rumour that lookbook photos and possibly the films shown at the NYFW event would be released at the time that Mr. Pugh would normally have shown at PFW. And so, I patiently waited, and got caught up in preparing for a work trip to a town that no one should ever have to travel to on purpose. So by the time I was sitting on a bench last Wednesday, staring out at the planes getting pushed out to the runway by teeny tiny go-carts, I had pretty much forgotten that it was already PFW and time for said rumour to prove true or not. And let me tell you, I literally audibly gasped when I saw the photos of the potato sack (ahem, sackcloth hessian) and rope pieces, and had my tablet within an inch of my nose, soaking in the three films (choreographed by Wayne McGregor) that had accompanied the NYFW’s live dance performances. Playing on British folklore, rites, and rituals, this is probably the darkest and least springy S/S collection I’ve ever seen, meaning I positively love it. Gareth Pugh is a gorram genius, and SHOWstudio are saints for providing not only the photos but also the videos to us. I really hope Mr. Pugh continues to push the boundaries on the expectations of fashion week, because his work gets even better when he does so. Heck, I’d even be happy to do without the lookbook photos all together. Though, if that was the way things went next season, I would ask for a simple photo of the man himself waving and smiling at the end of the show. Oh that smile…
Anyway, it might be my new glasses, but it seems the loophole I had once found for posting videos is now closed, so you’re gonna have to click to view the three videos elsewhere (and I highly recommend you do, particularly to get a better look at the pieces). The first video is entitled ‘Megalith’, with the models representing characters from British folklore, and can be seen here or here. The second video is entitled ‘Chaos’, with the choreography representing a pagan anarchy (note the pentagram harnesses above, also seen on the live dancers at the NYFW event), and can be seen here or here. The last video is entitled ‘Ascension’ (for obvious reasons), exploring rebirth and renewal à la Pughian phoenix. This is the video that produced the iconic look of the NYFW event, and can be seen here or here. Happy viewing.
(Photos via SHOWstudio)