(yohj) JUN (viv): S/S 14
Umm, guys? I’m not so certain about my certainty yesterday about Yohji having the best collection. Because I totally wasn’t expecting Junya Watanabe to do this. I mean, in general, I tend to only really like Mr. Watanabe’s A/W collections, as he does outerwear best. And the last two times he did something unexpected (S/S 13 and A/W 13), I pretty much hated those collections. Actually, the last time I truly loved Mr. Watanabe’s newest offerings was his S/S 12 collection, two whole years ago. But now there’s this.
To be honest, I don’t know if I can say that I love love the collection. In general, I’m not a fan of fringes of any sort on clothing, and the jersey sort in particular often comes off as tacky touristy crap that should have a screenprint of a wolf on it or something and beads on the ends of the fringes. But from Junya, it comes off as the magical Japanese rendering of Alexandra Groover’s slashed jersey essence mixed with Barbara Í Gongini’s dreaded and layered styling powers. And it’s that creativity and unexpectedness and make-you-think-ness that could push this collection into 1st place. Because Yohji’s collection is very Yohji. I love it for that, but it’s safe. Sure, Junya’s brings in some familiar elements as well, such as the trench (best seen in S/S 12), the boyfriend jeans (in A/W 13), and the bird headpieces (again, in S/S 12). But if you had told me that one day I’d see knotted jersey fringes from Junya, I probably would’ve ignored that email. So, congrats, Junya. You still have my attention.
(Photos via Style.com)